My DIY Duplicator is Finally Done - Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating

WoodyCT · 02-16-2010, 08:04 PM

And it actually works!

WoodyCT · 02-16-2010, 08:05 PM

Hope they swim.

angler229 · 02-16-2010, 08:20 PM

Nice Dup. The original BM schoolies are the sweetest swimming plug I have ever seen. The lip is weird though kind of a hybrid Pikie/Lefty lip, so it might be hard to get it exactly like the original.

pbadad · 02-16-2010, 10:07 PM

Nice job Jon. Never saw a BM schoolie. Can't wait for the swap.

LaPala · 02-17-2010, 12:15 AM

Nice job. Is the result direct from the carbide bit without sanding?

Can you tell me where and what bit to get and the holder too?

Finatic · 02-17-2010, 05:55 AM

Nice Job Woody. Clean work!

WoodyCT · 02-17-2010, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LaPala

Nice job. Is the result direct from the carbide bit without sanding?

Can you tell me where and what bit to get and the holder too?

Carbide bit leaves the blank quite fuzzy (as seen on the parts of the blank that are rough looking), but a little 80 grit followed by 120 grit and the blank will be what you see in these pics.

I can put you in touch with the bit/holder supplier.

pbadad · 02-17-2010, 08:40 AM

My plugs even with the carbidetipped bit on the dupe leave the fuzzies. I 180 grit the plug and shes a done deal.

mfm22 · 02-17-2010, 09:25 AM

nice job ...you're gonna need more wood

WoodyCT · 02-17-2010, 09:31 AM

2x2 pine firring strips at Lowe's or Homies.

$2 for 8 feet!

Great White · 02-17-2010, 12:33 PM

That looks great. I have also been toying with the idea of making a duplicator. Would like to know who makes the cutter.

ProfessorM · 02-17-2010, 01:36 PM

cool, well done

Mr. Krinkle · 02-17-2010, 01:56 PM

great job and a lot cheaper than my Vega.

Are you sure the the firring strips are pine at Home Depot. The only 2x2's that i'm aware of are Western Red Cedar, which isn't very red because it is a low grade cut of the tree, and pressure treated 2x2.

Eric Roach · 02-17-2010, 05:21 PM

That is pretty simple & slick.

LaPala · 02-17-2010, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodyCT

Carbide bit leaves the blank quite fuzzy (as seen on the parts of the blank that are rough looking), but a little 80 grit followed by 120 grit and the blank will be what you see in these pics.

I can put you in touch with the bit/holder supplier.

Would appreciate that Woody

WoodyCT · 02-17-2010, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Krinkle

great job and a lot cheaper than my Vega.

Are you sure the the firring strips are pine at Home Depot. The only 2x2's that i'm aware of are Western Red Cedar, which isn't very red because it is a low grade cut of the tree, and pressure treated 2x2.

Last pic is next to some fresh cut WRC. What do you guys think?

WoodyCT · 02-18-2010, 09:42 AM

Looks like I stumbled onto a design for a drying rack courtesy of my dad's skunk trap.

eskimo · 02-18-2010, 01:36 PM

Try putting some handles on the sled. you might find out easily to move.

ProfessorM · 02-18-2010, 02:46 PM

yes handles are a must. I didn't even notice you had none.

WoodyCT · 02-18-2010, 03:31 PM

It wasn't tough to use w/o them, but I guess a set of ape hangers would look cool.

ProfessorM · 02-18-2010, 04:18 PM

Will help a lot when you do some birch or maple. Cedar and pine are child's play with this type of set up but when you get into rock maple and birch it will scare the hell out of you sometimes, especially after you rip a plug or two right out of the centers. You will have wrists like John L Sullivan after a while. Cramping of the wrists and forearms are the only downfall of this set up but if you are only doing short runs than it is a lot of fun and very efficient. Also taking off the edges before you load them will help you a lot. Want them to look like stop signs. I use the band saw and a big v groove fixture. I did a post of that fixture a few years back

Grapenuts · 02-18-2010, 07:42 PM

what helps the most on that type of dup is if you drill out the center in a few places and load it up with lead...heavyer the better,helps with controlling the cutter when put to wood instead of your spinning wood controlling the cutter.

WoodyCT · 02-18-2010, 08:29 PM

I can see how harder wood could really toss it around. I could always rough my blanks to round before duping.

Is there a best location for the bars- middle, forward, toward rear?

Lead makes sense too. I'll use the Speed Bore on the bottom and epoxy some bank sinkers in.

I'll modify it before turning some Wadds.

Slipknot · 02-18-2010, 09:09 PM

one more suggestion, build up the base higher instead of building up the duplicator part. It lowers the center of gravity,that and the lead combine to give more control and stability. I did that and I feel safer

JohnnyD · 02-18-2010, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodyCT

I can see how harder wood could really toss it around. I could always rough my blanks to round before duping.

Is there a best location for the bars- middle, forward, toward rear?

Lead makes sense too. I'll use the Speed Bore on the bottom and epoxy some bank sinkers in.

I'll modify it before turning some Wadds.

Woody, I'm assuming you're in CT, but if you come by SE Mass at all, I could give you some scrap lead. Bank sinkers are getting expensive with them being replaced by eco-friendly metals. PM me if interested.

ProfessorM · 02-19-2010, 10:43 AM

yes what Bruce said the lower the cutter, sled, the better control. You want the lowest height you can make it but still be able to get your hands on it and as heavy as you can stand it. Maybe take at least one sheet of that ply off the top of sled and put one under the base.
Make handles down kind of low so you can rest your hands on top of handles, fingers around handles, thumbs on back of sled, and wrists, and a little forearm will lay on base. Kind of a fonzy thumbs up, with the thumbs horizontal pointing towards each other. Make it comfortable as you are looking for downward pressure so handles up high are going to lead to fatigue as you won't be able to incorporate your wrists and forearms on the base. LOL making it sound like rocket science for cripes sake, sorry

WoodyCT · 02-19-2010, 10:54 AM

So I need to raise the table and chop down the cutter tower. And put some horns on it.

Thanks for the offer Johnny. I'm good on lead though.

I think I'll crank out as many soft-wood plugs as I can before surgery however.

JFigliuolo · 02-19-2010, 12:25 PM

What was your total layout $$$ if you don't mind. I've been toying with the idea for awhile, not sure if I wan to buy the PSI dup, or make one.

WoodyCT · 02-19-2010, 12:49 PM

I built this one after realizing using the PSI would be a big PITA, which takes templates less than 1/4" thick and can't hold a plug to duplicate it. It is really intended for pen turning I think.

Total cost was about $100.

Materials- 2'x4' of 3/4" melamine coated shelf board
2'X4' of 3/4" birch plywood
1/4" birch plywood for templates
Epoxy
Various screws, nuts, bolts, washers
Cutter holder and carbide cutter (most expensive parts)
Spray adhesive to mount photo of plug to make template

Tools- Band/jig Saw
Table Saw
Drill press
Belt sander
Miter saw

Easily an afternoon project for you handy guys, but I took a bit longer due to inexperience.

Jigman · 02-19-2010, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodyCT

I built this one after realizing using the PSI would be a big PITA, which takes templates less than 1/4" thick and can't hold a plug to duplicate it....

I started out with that dup. For templates I used a piece of 1/4 or 1/2 inch thick pine. Basically the profile of the plug. These were taped to the dup with double sided tape. Worked fine for small runs of plugs. If I had the ability to build one like yours, I might have opted for that instead. Looks pretty cool!

Jigman